Linen seems to get better the longer you live with it. A new linen dress can feel a little crisp on day one, but after a summer of wear and gentle washes, it turns soft and easy, like something you have always owned. Caring for it is simple: a little patience and a light hand, no special equipment. Here is how to keep your pieces with you for many summers.
Washing: Keep It Cool and Gentle
Linen does not need hot water to get clean. Cold or lukewarm water on a gentle or delicate cycle is usually all it takes, and cooler water helps protect both the fibers and the color. A few simple habits go a long way:
- Use a mild liquid detergent, and use a little less than you think you need.
- Skip chlorine bleach, which can weaken flax fibers and leave yellow spots.
- Do not overload the machine. Linen likes room to move, and a crowded drum creates deep creases.
- Wash darker or brightly dyed pieces, like rust or olive, with similar colors for the first few washes, since some dye can loosen early on.
- Turn garments inside out to cut down on surface wear and fading.
If you hand wash, use cool water and a little detergent, then press the water out instead of wringing, which can stretch the fabric.
Drying: Let the Breeze Do the Work
There is something very slow-summer about a linen shirt drying on a line in the backyard. It is also the kindest way to dry it. Shake the piece out firmly, smooth the seams and collar with your hands, and hang it on a line or a sturdy hanger. Linen dries quickly in open air, often faster than you would expect.
Try to dry colored linen in the shade or indoors near an open window, because strong direct sun over many hours can fade earthy dyes. If you need to use a dryer, choose the lowest heat setting and take the garment out while it is still slightly damp. High heat can cause shrinkage and makes the fabric feel stiff and brittle.
Ironing: Damp Is Your Friend, or Skip It Entirely
Linen wrinkles. That is part of its character and its charm. A softly rumpled linen shirt with the sleeves rolled up fits a long summer afternoon just right.
If you prefer a crisper finish, iron your linen while it is still damp. Use a medium-high setting, and press on the reverse side for darker colors to avoid shine. A spray bottle or a handheld steamer helps if the piece has already dried. For a middle ground, hang it in the bathroom while you shower and let the steam relax the wrinkles.
Storage: Give It Room to Breathe
Linen is a natural fiber, and it does best when stored somewhere cool, dry and airy. Here are a few pointers for the off-season and everyday storage alike:
- Always store linen clean. Small spots and body oils can set over time and attract moths.
- Choose cotton garment bags or a breathable box instead of plastic, which can trap moisture.
- Hang dresses, jackets and kimonos on wide or padded hangers so shoulders keep their shape.
- Fold pants and skirts loosely, and refold them along different lines now and then so permanent creases do not form.
- Tuck a cedar block or a lavender sachet into the drawer if you like a natural scent.
Stains: Act Fast, Stay Calm
Spills happen, especially at picnics and patio dinners. The key is to treat a stain quickly and gently.
For Food, Drinks and Everyday Marks
Blot, do not rub, with a clean cloth. Rinse the spot from the back side with cold water to push the stain out the way it came in. Work in a small amount of mild detergent with your fingertips, let it sit a few minutes, then wash as usual.
For Oil and Grease
Sprinkle a little cornstarch or baking soda on the spot to draw out the oil, let it rest, brush it away, then treat with dish soap and cold water before washing.
Avoid hot water on fresh stains, since heat can set them. Check that a stain is fully gone before drying, and test any stain remover on an inside seam first.
Softening Over Time
This is the part we love most. Every wash and every wear breaks in linen a little more. The fibers relax, the hand gets smoother, and the drape becomes looser and more fluid. You do not need fabric softener to get there, and in fact softener can coat the fibers and reduce how well linen breathes. A splash of white vinegar in the rinse cycle is a gentle option some people use, but simple, regular washing and wearing does most of the work on its own.
So wear your linen often. A piece worn and washed all summer will usually feel better by fall than one kept in a drawer.
Ready to start a linen collection that grows softer with you? Browse our linen dresses and tops, each sewn in small batches by independent makers, and check the size guide to find your fit in XS through XXL. Shipping is a flat $8 per order to any U.S. address, and orders arrive in about 10 days. Returns are accepted within 30 days of delivery for unworn pieces with tags attached.